So just to come back on the original question the response is "YES" we can replace "oscillator" on the nano and "YES" we can easily downclock to the internal 8Mhz the nano.ġ - I've use the Skech on one working Nano from "Nick Gammon" : Gammon Forum : Electronics : Microprocessors : How to make an Arduino-compatible minimal board I know (and I do it for any projet I have) that I can buy Nano's (or any others Uc boards) for only few $. It makes no sense to design the raw ATmega chip into your own PCB (unless like a couple of the posters here, you intend to actually make have them made (in China) in quantity to sell), just buy cheap Pro Minis or Nanos and mount them to your own PCB. You do not need to assemble your own to understand how it works nor to make it work "better" the designs available are tested and stable. Consider them a functional component something you use as part of a system to perform the task you want in the most efficient way. These boards - at least from China or should I say direct from China - are cheap. I consider that a major waste of time - and money. I'll let you know the solution adopted once done. I may be lucky to be able to solder a new one over (or place a temporary clock to change the fuses). So you could tack some magnet wire to the pins on the ATmega328P and not worry too much about getting a perfect soldering job as long as it doesn't cause shorts because you're just going to remove the wires as soon as the fuses are set. That will still require connections to the clock pins, but those connections only need to work long enough to set the fuses for the internal oscillator. To do that, you will need to provide a temporary external clock source on the clock pins of the ATmega328P, since the fuses are set to use an external clock source and the chip is "bricked" without one. In that case, it might be best to instead just switch to using the internal oscillator. If it was forcefully knocked off the board then the pads may have been torn off, which makes the repair much more difficult, since you would need to tack some wires directly to the microcontroller pins or scrape the solder mask off the traces to get some bare copper to bodge solder a resonator to. I would carefully examine the pads where the resonator was.
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